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Mera Peak Climb

Mera peak rises to the south of Everest. The ascent of the peak is technically straightforward, however, the heavy snow and the maze of crevasses can make the way longer to the summit. Mera peak climbing is gradually becoming popular among trekkers and novice climbers to have the feeling of hiking and climbing on snow and experiencing trekking in remote part of Khumbu region.

Mera peak (6654m) is the highest of Nepal’s permitted trekking peaks rises to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. There are many routes to Mera peak, none of them easy. Some of the route traverses through difficult passes, and the arduous climb then becomes a true mountaineering experience. The normal route for climbing Mera Peak is North Face Glacier from the Mera La. The end however, is worth all the effort, as Mera is definitely one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal.


Duration: 19 Nights / 20 Days


Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu
On arrival at Kathmandu you will be met and transferred to the hotel for overnight stay.


Kathmandu the capital of the Nepal Kingdom, surrounded by green hills and mountains with snow capped peaks against its northern and eastern background the Valley is indeed beautiful. There are complex examples of Nepal’s art and architecture all round. 


Day 02: In Kathmandu (Rock Climbing Course)
This morning, you will be taken to 3 Km drive to the place called Balaju, a natural rock climbing spot for your climbing course before departure to Lukla, the one day course will provide excellent opportunities to learn how to use rope, harness, Ice axe, crampons although there is no snow


Optional:  Kathmandu city sightseeing tour


Visit temples of Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath, temple of the living and Also visit Residence of the Living Goddess near the Durbar Square, which is residence of Kumari, the Living Goddess (Virgin Goddess).  Its wooden balconies and windows are profusely carved.


Afternoon city tour of Kathmandu city includes Hanuman Dhoka, the historic palace of the ancient kings of Nepal.  A complex of many temples and monuments, guarded by a huge statue of the Monkey God, Hanuman, it has evolved to its present state of maturity over a period of centuries with contributions from a number of dynasties, headed by Malla kings.  It is here that the kings of Nepal are crowned, and their coronations solemnized.  There are complex examples of Nepal’s art and architecture all round. 


In evening is free to enjoy exploring local animated markets,
Stay overnight at hotel.


Day 03: Kathmandu -  Lukla & trek to Chutanga
This morning you will be transferred to domestic airport and fly to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft). It takes 40 minutes scenic flight up to small airstrip to Tenjin-Hillary airport to Lukla and experience your first breakfasts in the mountains whilst the Himalayan Glacier team organizes porters, while the guide sort and divide the load baggage to be carried by porters. We start our trek further an easy day through the woodland above Lukla. A good trail leads through pasture to the edge of a diminishing forest of rhododendron and pine which clothes the steep hillsides above Lukla. We make steady progress on a good trail, crossing ridges and streams up to kharka used for grazing yaks where we will stop for 2 overnight at camp at Chutanga (3,450m/11,320ft).


Day 04: In Chutanga
This morning after a Himalayan breakfast at the camp we will have full day leisure at camp or spend a day walking up to a small grassy peak below the Zatra Teng Pass reaching an altitude of (4000m/13,120ft). There are excellent views out over the valley of the Dudh (milk) Kosi (river), and also views of our route towards the Zatrwa La.


We stroll back to our camp at Chutanga for the overnight stay.


Day 05: Trek to Tuli Kharka via Zatrwa La pass
After a rest/acclimatization day at Chutanga we continue a long day walk around 6-7 hours crossing the Kalo Himal Ridge that separates the Khumbu from the Hinku valley that lead across this ridge is the Zatrwa La (4,600m/15,093ft), traversing to the right and finally descending steeply to Tuli Kharka (big pasture) where there are several basic lodges. We make camp beside the lodges at 4250m/13,944ft. Remainder time rest and relax at the camp after a long walk.


Day 06: Trek to Gothey
Today, after a breakfast we continue our journey descending to Hinku valley of Gothey at an altitude of 3600m/11,812ft. Gothey is a good place to camp and there are several teahouses around and you can visit and go and watch the local lifestyle in the remaining time and we will camp near by the teashops.


Stay overnight at the camp.


 Day 07: Trek to Thagnag
The following day is another short day as you trek in the shadow of Mera Himal along the ridge of the Hinku Khola. The west bank of the Hinku Drangka northwards, we will take lunch at Gondishung, a summer herders settlement. Beyond Gondishung we pass a 200 year-old Gompa built beneath a massive boulder, to burn some juniper at the shrine, an offering that just might ensure a successful ascent of Mera Peak. Thagnag is a summer grazing area with the simplest of lodges and shops starting to develop.


Stay overnight at the camp.


Day 08: Acclimatization day at Thagnag
Another an acclimatization day is essential here. It is in a superb setting surrounded by stunning peaks. There is a huge moraine in the north of Tangnag where a beautiful glacial lake, Sabal Tsho is dammed which is definitely worth a visit. A cairn (5,270m/17,290ft) on the flanks of Kusum Kangguru can also be rewarding and beneficial for acclimatization.
Our climbing Sherpa provide you training course.


Stay overnight at the camp.


Day 09: Trek to Khare
Today we are heading up from Tagnag towards the Mera Base camp at Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal.


The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to your camping spot at Khare (5,025m/16,486ft).


Arrive and you will installation at the camp for overnight stay.


Day 10: In Khare (Ice climbing Practice)

This morning after a breakfast, we prepare our gear for ice climbing just above the Khare and need to walk couple of hrs from where there are good views of the Mera La and the route up the mountain. This will also be a time for practicing few hrs Ice climbing and our leader will teach you and instruct about the climbing.


Afternoon You Will take final preparation of our equipment and packing of our mountain bags and overnight.


Day 11: Trek to a camp at the Mera La

A very short trek allowing for as much acclimatization time and a day walk as you make your way to Mera Base Camp. We first climb to the crest of the moraine above Khare and then up a steep slope of scree or snow to reach a boulder strewn bowl below the lower tongue of the Mera Glacier. Reaching the pass Mera La (5,415m/17,766ft) allows us to see spectacular views; we then descend 100m (328ft) towards the Hongu side and set up base camp in the moraine below the ice and we overnight in Mera Base Camp (5,350m/17,552ft).


Day 12: Climb to Mera high camp, 3-4 hrs
Making your way to Mera High Camp can be hazardous if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. You make your way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. You set up a high camp and from here the views are outstanding, with Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu and more piercing the skyline. This evening we overnight in Mera High Camp (5,750m/18,865ft).


Day 13: Summit day and descend to Khare
This is a big day, we wake up at 2.30 am around and after a breakfast, the group will put on crampons and rope up before setting out for the summit. From the high camp a well acclimatized party will take 3 - 4 hours to the central summit of Mera peak. If time and conditions permit we may opt to make the traverse to the slightly higher north summit. This excursion adds 2 -3 hours to the day is of a more technical nature than the rest of the climb and the decision as to whether we attempt this will be taken by the trip leader. From the summit can be seen the magnificent views of Mt. Everest (8,848m/29,029ft), Cho-Oyu (8,201m/26,906ft), Lhotse (8,516m/27,940ft), Makalu (8,463m/27,766ft), Kangchenjunga (8,586m/28,169ft), Nuptse (7,855m/25,770ft), Lubuche (6,145m/20,160ft), Chamlang (7,319m/24,013ft) are spectacular from the summit. You then retrace your steps to Khare after the climb with a rest and some hot soup at high camp on the way down. A long but inspirational day.


Day 14: A spare Summit attempt day
This day we use to keep as a spare day, set aside in case we have to postpone the attempt on the peak because of bad weather or because some of the group have not yet acclimatized well enough to make the ascent. If already climb this day you can use for another Ice climbing day or spent one more night at village of Lukla.


Day 15: Return back to Gothey
After a great succeed of the expedition to Mt. Mera we descending to Hinku valley to Gothey for our overnight stop at camp. Enjoy the evening with local wines or whatever you want to relax at the camp and overnight.


Day 16: Trek to Tuli Kharka
Today, we again climb up through the lush forest on the west side of the Hinku Valley to Tuli Kharka below the Zatwra La where we are staying overnight at camp.


Day 17: Trek back to Lukla via crossing Zatrwa la
Today, we have a last day for the trek and we start to climb few hundreds meters to the Zatrwa La top will be our last climb of the trip. After the top we descending up to Lukla village where we concludes the trekking part and this evening enjoy with crews at the last dinner at the mountain and overnight at teahouse.


Day 18: Lukla - Kathmandu
In the morning as per schedule you will be transferred to the airport to take flight for Kathmandu and on arrival transfer to hotel.


 Rest of the day you will be free to explore the local animated market.
Stay overnight at your hotel.


Day 19: In Kathmandu
Full day you will be free for independent activities.
 Stay overnight at your hotel.


Day 20: Depart Kathmandu
In the time you will be transferred to International airport to board flight for onward Journey.

 
 
 
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